Where Men Become Women

Once upon a time, a man who wanted a professional feminine makeover had very few places to turn. He might find a sympathetic makeup artist through word of mouth, answer a discreet advertisement in the back of a magazine or try to explain himself to a puzzled beautician at a neighborhood salon.

Today, transformation salons are becoming much easier to find. A search of the Internet reveals studios in cities across the United States, the United Kingdom and elsewhere. Some call themselves makeover studios, dressing services or gender-expression salons, but their purpose is much the same: they help male clients discover how convincingly and beautifully they can present as women.

These are not ordinary beauty salons with a spare dress hanging in the back room. The people who operate the better transformation salons understand the special challenges of working with a male face and figure. They know how to conceal beard shadow, reshape eyebrows, soften a jawline, select a flattering wig and use padding and shapewear to create feminine proportions. Many also maintain wardrobes containing dresses, skirts, lingerie, jewelry, handbags and, most important of all, women’s shoes in sizes seldom found in the average department store.

In other words, they have everything a growing girl needs.

A typical appointment begins with a private conversation about the client’s wishes. Is she hoping to look like an everyday woman going shopping, a polished professional headed for the office or a glamorous lady ready for a night on the town? Then come makeup, hair, clothing and accessories. Many salons include a photography session, while some offer makeup lessons, wardrobe advice, escorted shopping trips or even an evening out.

The clientele is just as varied as the services. There are nervous first-timers who have never worn anything more feminine than a borrowed pair of panties. There are experienced crossdressers who want to improve their presentation. There are men celebrating birthdays, retirees finally acting on a lifelong dream and people trying to decide what their feminine feelings mean. A good salon does not insist on a label. It simply opens the door and says, “Let’s see what is possible.”

Why are more of these salons appearing or at least becoming more visible?

The Internet deserves much of the credit. A specialized business that once depended on a tiny local clientele can now be discovered by customers willing to travel hundreds of miles. Before-and-after photographs demonstrate what the artist can accomplish, while online reviews help a nervous newcomer decide whether a studio is trustworthy. Greater public acceptance of gender expression has also made it easier for makeup artists and stylists to advertise these services openly rather than operate almost underground.

There is also a demand that conventional beauty salons do not always meet. A crossdresser may be perfectly welcome at the makeup counter in a department store, but welcome is not the same as expertise. Applying makeup to a face with heavy beard shadow is different from applying it to a face that has never needed a razor. Selecting a wig for a larger head, a dress for broader shoulders or heels for size-12 feet requires knowledge and a properly stocked closet.

Perhaps the greatest service these salons provide is not cosmetic at all. It is confidence.

Many clients arrive frightened, embarrassed and unsure of what to expect. A few hours later, they see a woman looking back from the mirror—sometimes a surprisingly attractive one. For someone who has spent years believing that such a transformation was impossible, that first look can be powerful. The makeup eventually comes off, but the knowledge does not. She now knows the woman in her imagination can exist in the real world.

Of course, a salon visit is not a substitute for practice. A professional artist can create the look, but the client still has to learn how to reproduce it. She must discover which clothes flatter her, how to walk comfortably in heels, how to move naturally and how to face the public without looking as though she expects to be arrested. As I have written many times, successful femulation requires practice, practice, practice.

Anyone considering a transformation salon should do some homework. Ask whether appointments are private, whether photographs remain confidential and exactly what the quoted price includes. Look for an artist whose gallery shows believable women rather than exaggerated costumes unless exaggerated is what you want. Most important, speak with the proprietor beforehand. A good transformation begins with feeling safe, respected and understood.

Not every customer will leave the salon and head directly to the mall. Some will remove the makeup, change back into male clothing and carry their photographs home as a treasured secret. That is their choice. But others will look in the mirror, pick up their handbag and wonder why they should waste such a lovely makeover by staying indoors.

For them, the transformation salon may be more than a beauty business. It may be the bridge between the closet and the civilian world.

And once that bridge has been crossed, there may be no turning back except, perhaps, for another appointment.

Wearing Leau

Lee Pace femulating in the 2003 film Soldier's Girl.
Click here to view this film on YouTube.